OKC Metro
What We Work On
Find the thing your door is doing, then call and describe it.
- Eight jobs, plainly explained
- Homes and businesses
- The same technician quotes it and fixes it
Pick the symptom, not the part name
You do not need to know whether it is a torsion spring or a cable drum. Describe what the door is doing and which noise it makes, and the diagnosis is our job. Each block below starts with the complaint we actually hear on the phone, then explains what usually sits behind it and what we do about it.
The spring snapped
The spring snapped and the door will not lift
A loud bang from the garage followed by a door that suddenly weighs a great deal is almost always a broken spring. The springs, not the opener, carry the weight of the door; the opener only guides it. Once a spring fails, the full weight lands on hardware that was never rated to hold it, which is why a door in that state can drop. Leave it down, unplug the opener so nobody trips the remote, and keep people and cars out from under it. We replace springs in matched pairs even when only one has gone, because the surviving spring has done the same number of cycles and will follow shortly. The new pair is wound to your specific door rather than to a generic setting, then the balance is checked by hand at several points through the travel.
- Torsion and extension springs, matched pairs
- Cable drums and shafts checked at the same time
- Balance tested by hand before the opener goes back on
The opener ignores me
The opener hums, grinds, or ignores the remote
Openers fail in a small number of recognisable ways. A unit that hums without moving usually has a stripped drive gear or a seized capacitor. One that runs but does not move the door has lost the trolley connection. A door that responds at the wall button but not the remote is a battery, a frequency conflict, or a receiver that has quietly given up. We work through those in order rather than selling you a new unit on sight, because a fifteen year old opener with a good motor is often worth a gear kit and nothing more. When a replacement genuinely is the better call we say why, fit it, and program every remote and keypad you own before leaving.
- Chain, belt and screw drive units
- Remotes, keypads and wall controls reprogrammed
- Safety sensors realigned and reversal tested
It grinds and sticks
It shudders, sticks, or screeches on the way up
Rough travel is a hardware problem hiding in plain sight. Cables fray where they wind onto the drum and eventually jump the groove, which pulls one side of the door higher than the other. Rollers with worn bearings stop rolling and start dragging, gouging the track as they go. Track that has been clipped by a bumper develops a pinch point the door has to force its way past twice a day. We inspect the whole run rather than the loudest three feet of it, replace what is worn, straighten what can be straightened, and tell you honestly when a section of track is bent past saving.
- Frayed or jumped cables re-seated or replaced
- Nylon and steel rollers, hinges and bearing plates
- Track alignment corrected, damaged sections replaced
A panel is damaged
A panel is dented, split, or rotting through
Backing into the bottom section is the most common way a garage door gets hurt, and it rarely means the whole door is finished. On most sectional doors a single panel can be swapped, provided the model is still made and the colour can be matched closely enough to live with. We check the section above and below for hidden distortion first, because a hard impact often bends the hinges and the strut behind the panel rather than only the skin you can see. If the door is old enough that panels are no longer produced we will tell you that plainly instead of ordering a part that will not arrive.
- Single section replacement where the model allows
- Struts, hinges and end caps checked for hidden damage
- Honest answer when the door is past economic repair
It came off the track
The door came off its track and sits crooked
An off-track door is the one failure that looks alarming and usually is. It happens when a cable slips, an obstruction catches one side, or a roller leaves the channel at speed, and the door ends up jammed diagonally in the opening under considerable tension. Do not try to force it back with the opener, which is the reflex that turns a straightforward correction into bent track and a broken panel. We release the tension in a controlled way, walk the door back into the channel, then look for the reason it left, because a door that jumps once without a cause found will jump again.
- Tension released before anything is moved
- Door walked back into the channel, not forced
- Root cause identified so it does not repeat
I want a new door
The door is past saving and you want a new one
Sometimes the arithmetic stops working. A door with rotted sections, a bent frame, and springs at the end of their cycle life is throwing good money after bad, and a new one is the cheaper answer over any reasonable stretch of time. We measure the opening, the headroom and the backroom, talk through insulation and window options against how you actually use the garage, and give you a written estimate with no pressure attached to it. Installation includes taking the old door and hardware away, and we do not quote a door we would not fit in our own house.
- Opening, headroom and backroom measured on site
- Insulated and non-insulated options explained plainly
- Old door and hardware removed and taken away
A shop door is down
A shop or warehouse door has your crew stuck outside
Commercial doors fail differently because they are used differently. A rolling steel door at a loading bay may cycle forty times before lunch, so bearings, barrel springs and the operator wear on a timescale a house door never sees. Sectional doors on a shop front pick up damage from forklifts and delivery vehicles. We work on both, and we work around your hours where we can, because a door stuck open is a security problem and a door stuck shut is a stopped business. Tell us what the door does for you and we will tell you whether it needs repair now or a plan for later.
- Rolling steel, sectional and high-cycle doors
- Operators, barrel springs, bearings and bottom bars
- Scheduled around your trading hours where possible
Nothing is broken yet
Nothing is broken yet, and you want to keep it that way
A garage door is the largest moving object in most houses and it runs on parts that wear predictably. An annual going-over catches the cheap failures before they turn into expensive ones: a roller starting to bind, a hinge working loose, a cable beginning to fray, a seal that has gone hard and stopped keeping weather out. We check balance by disconnecting the opener and lifting the door by hand, test the safety reversal against a solid object, lubricate what should be lubricated and deliberately leave alone what should not be.
- Balance and safety reversal tested every visit
- Rollers, hinges, cables and seals inspected
- Written note of what is wearing and what can wait
Questions people ask before they call
Springs are rated in cycles rather than years, and one cycle is a single open plus a single close. A standard spring is usually rated around ten thousand cycles, which works out near seven years for a household that opens the door four times a day, and considerably less for a busy family with two cars. Higher cycle springs exist and cost more up front. If your door is opened far more than average, the longer-life spring is generally the better arithmetic.
That is the safety system doing its job, or believing it is. The photo eyes near the floor on both sides must see each other cleanly; a cobweb, a leaf, a knocked bracket or direct sunlight into the lens will break the beam and send the door back up. The other common cause is a close-force setting on the opener that has drifted, so the unit reads normal floor contact as an obstruction. Both are quick to diagnose and neither should be worked around by holding the button down.
This is the one job on a garage door where we would genuinely rather you did not. A torsion spring stores enough energy to break bones and it releases all of it at once if the winding bars slip. The tools are specific, the winding count is specific to your door, and the failure mode is sudden. Almost everything else on a door is approachable for a careful owner with a socket set. Springs are the exception, and it is not a sales line.
If the garage was empty and nothing fell over, a single sharp bang is very often a torsion spring letting go. The sound is the spring uncoiling against the shaft in a fraction of a second, and it is loud enough to be mistaken for something hitting the door from outside. Go and look at the spring above the door: a broken one shows a clear gap of two or three inches between coils. Leave the door alone until it is replaced.
It should be able to guide the door, not haul it. With the opener disconnected at the trolley, a correctly balanced door should lift by hand with moderate effort and stay put when you leave it around waist height. If it slams down or shoots up, the springs are out of balance and the opener has been compensating. That is how motors and drive gears die early, so balance is worth fixing on its own merits.
Once a year suits most households, and twice for doors on a busy commercial opening. The value is not in the lubrication, which you could do yourself, but in the inspection: cables checked along their whole length, rollers spun by hand, hinges tested for play, balance measured and the safety reversal proven against a solid object. Those checks catch the parts that are on their way out while they are still a small job.
They are separate paths to the same motor, so a fault on one side rarely affects the other. A dead remote is usually a battery, a lost pairing after a power cut, or interference from a new LED bulb in the opener. A dead wall control is usually the low-voltage wire that runs down the wall, which gets nicked by shelving or pinched behind a stud. Knowing which one still works tells us where to look first.
It depends entirely on what the garage is for. If it is an unheated store for a lawnmower and some boxes, insulation buys you little beyond a quieter door. If the garage is a workshop, a gym, or shares a wall with a bedroom, an insulated door makes a genuine difference to both temperature and noise. Insulated doors are also stiffer and rattle less. We will tell you which case you are in rather than assuming the expensive one.
Who you reach at
Titan Garage Door Repairs
One number, answered by somebody who repairs garage doors for a living. Tell us what the door is doing and we will tell you what it needs, in words you can repeat to somebody else.
